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If you’re looking for an alternative to the chains that dominate the area around the Gare du Nord, this inconspicuous bistro is a good bet. The long dining room with its tapestry chairs and brocaded walls is looking a little sad, but Mr and Mme Bergeron in the salle and chef François Déage are serious about their food. They serve traditional regional fare with modern flourishes. Start with green asparagus and a well-textured duck terrine served with fig chutney, then a succulent sea bass fillet served with a creamy French-style polenta purée. Desserts are all homemade.